I have several older models of different brands that are all generally good but most of my sharpening is on finer bench saws where the size of the set hammer can be a problem. There are a lot of them out there in the $10- $15 range and you can’t go wrong with a Stanley 42x as long as it isn’t just falling apart.. They aren’t terribly complicated tools and they normally have numbers on the adjustable anvils (for those that have them) that will tell you the TPI the set was designed for. Those that don’t have adjustable anvils can be assumed to be for general carpentry saws. Paul Sellers has a video out on modifying saw sets for fine teeth. I finally broke down and bought a set ( a Somax No.250) designed specifically for finer teeth. Sorry I can’t remember where I ordered it from but it has worked very well for me. I normally sharpen all of my bench saws for rip cuts with a slightly relaxed rake, lightly set them and stone the sides of the teeth to give a straight cut with little set to help control the cut. A sharp fine rip back saw can give surprisingly good results on crosscuts also. I have learned that crosscut work with larger (fewer) TPI does demand sharpening in a crosscut tooth configuration and that requires setting every tooth. Also, work in wet wood demands more set because of the spring in the wood fibers.
One of the surprising things I have found is that with fine rip saw teeth in dry wood typically found at the bench, you don’t have to set every tooth. just enough to help the saw avoid binding, balanced on each side of the plate with more total teeth set for thinner stock just like you need more TPI in thinner stock. Some new saw blades are now manufactured with periodic set instead of set in every tooth.