What handplane should I get next?

//What handplane should I get next?
What handplane should I get next? 2017-04-29T18:29:29+00:00
  • Creator
  • #2031358

    Post count: 1

    Hi, I’m fairly new to woodworking (started last year). I like making mostly small projects; boxes, enclosures, and maybe small furniture.

    I currently have a Stanley 5 and a block plane, but I’m constantly finding myself adjusting my stanley for flattening/shooting endgrain/smoothing.

    I was considering on picking up a LN 164 bevel-up smoother or maybe a LN No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane. I would greatly appreciate any advice/opinions or even other suggestions.


  • Author
  • RedTail
    Post count: 2

    Of those two I would go with the low angle jack as it can also work well as a shooting plane.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    • Yash
      Post count: 1

      I have the same question

      Hey I m dealing with same issue can anyone give me any suggestions

  • Darth_Dweeb
    Post count: 1

    I too am fairly new to woodworking, handtools anyway, and I have a Veritas low angle jack. I would like to get a bevel down plane next but I don’t know what type to get. I am looking at the Veritas #4 but I was wondering if the Lie Nielson Bailey style is better. Any recommendations?

    • hollyshell24
      Post count: 1

      Router plane

      I’m getting ready to make a router plane I think they are really handy to have and are easy to make if you don’t have the budget to buy one

  • Mike in TN
    Post count: 258


    Which plane should you get? They all offer advantages and all of the brands mentioned have good tools so it really gets back to what you want to do. You really won’t hurt yourselves by buying any of the items mentioned and many of the differences get down to personal preference. My recommendation, if you have already narrowed down your choices, is to find a dealer, if you can, and try the items out.

    It can be bewildering when you are just starting. Can you get by with an “average” or reconditioned old tool or should you buy a “high end” new tool? Should I buy this brand or that brand and what is the difference? The best answer is to look at your skills, what you want to make, and what your current personal situation is. A skilled millionaire would have a different answer than a true beginner and someone making musical instruments is going to make different decisions that a furniture maker. When I got the woodworking bug most of the available information was published by power tool manufacturers so you can understand the recommendations for tool purchases then.

    We live in a golden age for woodworking information and just a little research will show what is really needed for work. Just check out the resources such as that Joshua offers and look at the videos posted by those that do work similar to what you are interested in. Check out their techniques and tools. then make your selection based on your personal situation. Don’t forget to spurge a little to treat yourself and don’t forget to post here to let us know how things turn out for you. Don’t fear buying a “wonderful” tool only to find out it wasn’t quite right for you. We have all done it at some point and that is one reason why Craigslist is so popular.

    Have fun.

  • Andrewsco
    Post count: 1

    If you have a number 5 jack plane I would probably look at getting a smooth plane – either an old Stanley no.4 or a new LN or Veritas if you have the money.

    I’d consider a router plane – this is the specialist tool I use the most in my shop by a mile and it is relatively inexpensive compared to smooth planes.

    obviously if you are doing specialist work this advise would change!

  • Odee
    Post count: 3

    I too started with the Stanley #5, which served as my scrub plane, my jointer and my shooting plane for the first year.  I then found the Stanley #6 at a flea market which I used for jointing as well as shooting (because of the higher mass) and a block plane.

    I now have a LN 62 which I love and reach for in most instances, but found that if I’m working with some squirrelly grain I would need something with a higher angle frog to avoid tearout. This is especially true unless you want to take very thin shavings and lots of passes with the low angle tools.

    I would suggest a shoulder plane next.  This will enable making tighter tenons.   After that, you will have developed enough experience to know what to get next.

    Good luck!


  • Joshua Farnsworth
    Post count: 54

    Have you read the handplane buyer's guide?

    Hi David, have you read my hand plane buyer’s guide? I talk about your very question in that article: https://woodandshop.com/woodworking-hand-tool-buying-guide-handplanes/

  • arc
    Post count: 1

    I really like my N0.3 Plane as a compliment to my No.5 and block plane for small work.  I’ve tried to minimize my planes but make each a meaningful step in terms of function and scale. No7 for jointing, N0 5 for all around use (and scrubbing off material with a second iron), N03 for smoothing and a block plane for the finest shaving/smoothing. That seems to be enough – that’s plenty of irons to keep sharp and I haven’t needed to look for additional tools.

  • nordichomey
    Post count: 4

    I have a #8 for jointing/flattening longer boards.  A #6 for shooting as it is heavier and more mast for shooting the end of boarder.  I have a #5 with arced iron for removing a lot of wood quick.  For smoothing I have #4 LV and a #3.  I find myself using the #3.  I have a low angle block plan I never seem to stop using.  All my planes are pre WWII era except the #4.

  • EeyorIs21
    Post count: 1

    It sounds like you already have a good foundation with the #5 and block plane. I would suggest a low-angle block plane if the current version is not already low-angle. Also, maybe a 2nd #5 and some extra blades. You could set the extra blades with camber to take deeper cuts. Instead of fine-tuning the one #5 you already have for the task at hand or purchasing another slightly more “specialized” tool you can have 2 of the one you’re already comfortable. After all, it is the “Jack” of all planes.

  • torres99
    Post count: 1

    Hi there,
    you could get another #5 plane for that purpose. One for the shooting board and the other for flattening. It cheaper than buying an LN plane.

  • nordichomey
    Post count: 4

    I had a #5 for shooting board.  Going to a #6 really made a difference with its extra heft.


  • Kieran
    Post count: 1

    I’d vote for a smoothing plane if I were you, once you get it dialed in properly and well sharpened you can get great results. If money is an issue an old Stanley 4 (or 3) in passable condition works great.  Also I’ll echo the comments on the router plane, those things are nice to have.  Not the cheapest though.

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Log In

Wood and Shop in your inbox?

Subscribe to get Joshua's free traditional woodworking videos, articles & news:

You have Successfully Subscribed!