5 Steps How to Make a Bridle Joint

Introduction

Among the many joints used in traditional woodworking, the bridle joint (often misspelled: “bridal joint”) stands out for its strength and simplicity. This joint, used at the top of a leg to connect to a stretcher, is not only functional but also a hallmark of traditional craftsmanship. In this article (and the above video), we’ll walk through the process of creating a bridle joint, from layout to assembly, using woodworking hand tools. I highly recommend that you watch the above video to guide you with this wood joint. Even though this joint is for building a Moravian Workbench, the process is essentially the same for any furniture making project you may have. 

What is a Bridle Joint?

The bridle joint is a type of mortise and tenon joint where part of the mortise is open, and the tenon is exposed on top. This creates a robust joint that’s a bit easier to make, when a full mortise and tenon joint isn’t absolutely necessary. 

The joint consists of:

• Tenon: The protruding part of the stretcher that fits into the mortise.
• Open Mortise: The slot in the leg where the tenon fits.

Required Hand Tools for Making a Bridle Joint

Before starting, ensure you have the following woodworking hand tools on hand (with links to some of our favorite affordable options):

• Marking knife: https://lddy.no/1lce7
• Combination Square or Try Square: https://amzn.to/3CZZ2R3
• Marking Gauge or Mortise Gauge: https://lddy.no/1lce8
• Bench Chisels: https://lddy.no/1lce9
• Rip panel saw and crosscut panel saw: https://ebay.us/xgpuWp
• Crosscut back saw: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4146/carcass-saws
• Block plane: https://amzn.to/4kn3NF9 or Carriage maker’s rabbet plane: https://ebay.us/SGuQj8

5 Steps to Make a Bridle Joint

Below I’ll share the 5 steps required to successfully make a bridle joint, using some basic woodworking hand tools. You can do this!

Step 1: Laying Out the Tenon

Mark the Shoulders

Start by marking the shoulder lines around the tenon stretcher at the desired depth. Make several passes with the knife to create a deep, clear line all around the tenon.

Using the Mortise Gauge

Set the mortise gauge to the desired tenon width. The gauge should be set so that the tenon is centered on the stretcher. Test the setting by scribing faint lines on the wood and adjusting as needed.

Gauge from the face side of the stretcher, ensuring consistent alignment. Once satisfied, scribe the tenon layout lines on both faces of the stretcher, from shoulder line to shoulder line. Darken these lines with a pencil for better visibility.

Mark the Waste

Clearly mark the waste areas on either side of the tenon. This helps prevent mistakes, especially when cutting the bridle joint. Always cut on the waste side of the layout line. 

Step 2: Cutting the Tenon

Clamp the stretcher diagonally so you can see two faces while cutting. A full-sized rip saw is ideal for this task, as it allows for faster and more efficient cutting. But you can also use a larger tenon saw, as long as it’s big enough for your tenon size. A tenon saw will give a finer cut.

Starting the Cut

1. Use your finger as a guide for the saw and make a small notch beside the layout line.
2. Begin cutting along one face, focusing on staying just outside the line (on the waste side).
3. Alternate between the face and the end grain to maintain control and accuracy.

Completing the Cut

Once you’ve made a diagonal cut through one side, flip the piece over. Use the kerf as a guide and repeat the process on the opposite side. This ensures clean, accurate cuts. Cut down until you reach the shoulder lines.

Cutting the Tenon Cheeks

Use a fine-toothed crosscut back saw (often called a carcass saw) to cut just next to the shoulder line. It’s safer to cut 1/16th of an inch away from the shoulder line (on the waste side) and stick a wide chisel into the shoulder line to cut a crisp shoulder. The chisel bevel should be facing the waste.

Cleaning Up the Cheeks

After sawing, use a block plane or rabbit plane to smooth the tenon cheeks. If you don’t have a rabbit plane, undercut the shoulders slightly with a chisel to allow a standard plane to work effectively.

Step 3: Layout the Open Mortise

Using the same mortise gauge cutter settings that you used on the tenon, scribe the mortise layout on the leg. Align the gauge fence to the face side for consistency. Darken the lines with a pencil for clarity.

Mark the Angled Top (if applicable)

If the leg is angled (as is the case with the Moravian Workbench undercarriage), set a bevel gauge to the desired angle. Mark the angle at the top of the leg and extend the lines around the sides. This will guide the cut for the angled mortise.

Cut the Angle (if applicable)

Using a crosscut saw, cut the angled top of the leg. Work diagonally for better accuracy, alternating between faces until the cut is complete.

Step 4: Chopping the Open Mortise

Clamp the leg securely and begin chopping the mortise with a bench chisel or firmer chisel that’s just narrower than your mortise.

Steps for Chopping

1. Start slightly in front of the baseline to avoid pushing beyond the line.
2. Make small, controlled chops to create a pocket.
3. Rotate back and forth between chopping on face grain and chopping on the end grain (see the above video for more details)
4. Split out the waste progressively, working halfway through the leg.
5. Flip the piece over and repeat from the other side until all the waste is removed.

Take care with the last few cuts to avoid breaking out the wood. Once the bulk of the waste is removed, clean up the walls of the mortise with the flat side of the chisel.

Step 5: Test Fitting the Bridle Joint

After cutting the mortise, test fit the tenon. The bridle joint should be snug but not overly tight, as excessive force could split the leg. If necessary, use the chisel to lightly pare (i.e. shave) the walls of the mortise.

Conclusion

By following these five steps, you can create a strong and visually appealing bridle joint that will stand the test of time. Whether you’re building a workbench or some other piece of furniture, mastering the bridle joint will elevate your woodworking skills and deepen your appreciation for the craft.

About Will Myers

Will Myers is an expert furniture maker from North Carolina, who specializes in building reproduction furniture with historical hand tools. Will is featured in the best-selling DVD “Building the Portable Moravian Workbench with Will Myers” and on the PBS TV show “The Woodwright’s Shop“. He also teaches woodworking classes at various schools, and has been featured in multiple woodworking magazine articles.