Parts of an Antique Molding Plane?

In this quick video Bill Anderson shows the different parts of an antique molding plane. Below you’ll see some graphics that I created to help you quickly identify the anatomy of a molding plane so you can sound smart around your woodworking buddies…er, um, I mean so you can better understand molding planes. And you can read our in-depth antique molding plane buyer’s guide here.

What is a Molding Plane?

Before showing the anatomy of an antique molding plane, I want to explain what a molding plane is, for my readers that may just be getting started in traditional hand tool woodworking.

A molding plane is a specialized wooden hand plane designed to create specific shapes, contours, and decorative profiles in wood. Unlike general-purpose bench planes, molding planes are typically dedicated to a particular profile or function, such as cutting beads, coves, ogees, or other intricate designs. I especially love moulding planes because they give visual interest using a play between light and shadow.

These tools have a rich history, with their use dating back centuries when they were essential in creating architectural moldings, furniture details, and other decorative elements. While modern power tools like routers have taken over some of these tasks, molding planes remain a favorite among traditional woodworkers (like myself and Bill) for their precision, control, and ability to produce clean, hand-finished profiles. You can find great antique molding planes here: https://ebay.us/SaBOlW

Anatomy of a Molding Plane

To use a molding plane effectively or to make an informed purchase, it’s important to familiarize yourself with its anatomy. Each part of the plane has a specific name and function, working together to create precise cuts and profiles. Let’s explore these components in detail.

1. Body:

• The body of the molding plane is the main bulk of the molding plane, made of quartersawn hardwood; commonly European beech wood.
• It provides structural integrity and houses all the components of the plane.

2. Heel:

• The back end of the molding plane.
• This is the part furthest from the cutting action and provides a reference point for the length of the tool. The heel can be struck with a wooden mallet to loosen the iron and wedge. 

3. Toe:

• The front bottom of the plane.
• This is where you begin your cut when guiding the plane along the wood.

4. Nose:

• The nose is the front top part of the plane, above the toe, and is usually held with one of a woodworker’s hands.
• It helps guide the moulding plane during use and contributes to its overall ergonomics.

5. Sole:

• The sole is the bottom surface of the plane, which comes into direct contact with the wood.
• In molding planes, the sole often has a profile cut into it, matching the shape or design that the plane is intended to create. For example, if the plane is designed to cut a bead or cove, the sole will have a corresponding profile (see the graphic below). 
• The sole is one of the most critical components of a molding plane, as it determines the precision and consistency of the cut. 
• The sole usually has the most damage on vintage molding planes and should be inspected for wear and damage before buying.

6. Mouth:

• The mouth is the opening in the sole of the plane where the cutting blade, known as the iron, projects through.
• The size and shape of the mouth affect the plane’s ability to handle shavings and determine the smoothness of the cut.

7. Handle:

• Many molding planes have a handle, a narrow part of the body that provides a comfortable grip for the user.
• This handle makes it easier to push and guide the plane along the wood.

8. Iron:

• The iron is the cutting blade of the molding plane.
• It is typically a thin, tapered piece of metal with a cutting edge that matches the profile of the sole.
• The iron is thicker at the cutting edge and tapers toward the top. This taper allows it to fit securely into the plane when wedged in place.
• The iron must be kept sharp (and polished flat on the back of the profile) to ensure clean, precise cuts. Since the profile of the iron matches the sole, sharpening often requires special files or stones to maintain its shape.

9. The Wedge:

• The wedge is a wooden piece that holds the iron securely in place within the body of the plane.
• It is tapered in the opposite direction of the iron, creating a mechanical lock when the two are pressed together.
• The wedge also has a rounded or oval top called a “finial” and a narrower “neck,” making it easier to insert or remove when adjusting the iron.

10. Fence:

• The fence is a non-cutting part of the plane that rests against the side of the stock. It prevents the plane from moving laterally, ensuring a straight cut.

11: Spring Lines:

• The spring line is a scribed line on the plane’s nose that indicates the correct angle at which the plane should be held. This ensures that the profile is cut accurately and consistently. In the photo above you can see that white pencil was used to highlight the scratched spring line.

12: Boxing:

• Boxing refers to the insert of dense, hard wood (often boxwood) in the plane. It is used to preserve the edges and maintain the accuracy of the profile over time. The boxing is particularly important in beading planes, where it helps maintain the shape of the bead.

13: Depth Stop:

• The depth stop is another non-cutting component that limits the depth of the cut. When the depth stop hits the top of the stock, the plane stops cutting, ensuring uniform depth.

About Bill Anderson

Bill is a handplane expert, and an accomplished maker and restorer of wooden hand planes. His workshop is full of both wood planes and metal planes, and he teaches classes on making, refurbishing, and sharpening hand planes. See Bill’s classes at our school here. Bill is also now (as of 2024) teaching small, private classes at his workshop outside of Chapel Hill, North Carolina. You can see his website here.