• Creator
  • #2027750

    Post count: 3


    Greetings respected woodworkers/craftsmen

    I am a new member, have been subscribed to Mr. Farnsworth’s youtube channel for perhaps 10 months. Recently saw a giveaway for a sharpening tool and I am sharing my ghetto way to sharpen a pairing chisel

    Please feel free to laugh it is extremely time consuming but that’s how i do it right now. always been a hand-tool person but for this task it seems like a power grinder is the only economical way to go.

    I reground a Lie-Nielsen A2 jack plane blade to 17 degrees and it took something like 12 hours by hand, this pairing chisel will perhaps take 6 hours….

  • Author
  • Mike in TN
    Post count: 292

    Hi Robertshuai,

    I don’t know how respected we are but thanks anyway and welcome to the group. Good luck on the drawing. It may have been just my system, but I couldn’t see the sharpening demonstration. 17 degrees seems like an awfully shallow bevel. The normal primary bevel is about 25 degrees and the secondary bevel is around 30 degrees for bevel down planes. I have seen some high end chisels sharpened (by the users) to around 17 degrees for hand pressure work but that means the edge needs more maintenance. It sounds like you spent a lot of time shaping the tools as opposed to the final edge preparation (sharpening). I don’t think I have ever spent more than about an hour on a plane blade and that was one with major pitting on the back.

    You might want to invest in a hand powered grinder if you want to stay with a hand tool only shop if you are going to have to a lot of shaping. The good news is that touching up an existing edge by hand normally only takes a few minutes.

    Have fun.


  • robertshuai
    Post count: 3


    i am so sorry my photo is not working, trying to find instructions on how to upload images

    thank you so much for your kind and friendly reply and advises, i am really happy to be part of this forum and all things relating to woodwork

    i reshape blades to 17 degrees because i find eliminating the bur very difficult for a novice, although i should have got it doing by hand for few years now i still get a better edge with stropping. but stropping always increase the angle by introducing a secondary bevel, and i really feel the low angle gives so much pleasure to use especially on end grains. also with a slicing cut with a lower angle solves the problem better for me than with a high angle plane for example.

    nice to meet you!! thanks again!!

  • Mike in TN
    Post count: 292

    Well, that certainly is an interesting approach. You also might want to consider investing in one of the inexpensive roller type jigs. I use a piece of MDF charged with a honing compound for honing. It is simple, inexpensive, and it works well. It may technically introduce a small secondary bevel but it is to such a small degree that it does not influence the action of the tool.

    Have fun

  • grubbyminer
    Post count: 3


    I made a one that was a 3/4″x 2″x 2″ block with a strip on top to hold the irons. Essentially a DIY roller jig where the bottom of the block rides on my marble slab near the sand paper. It works but most of the primary bevel adjustments are on the wheel and I sharpen and hone by hand.

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