Joshua Farnsworth clamping up maple lumber with bessey woodworking clamps

Introduction to Buying Woodworking Clamps, Glue & Fasteners

By Joshua Farnsworth

In this guide I’ll be focusing on tools and products that are used for holding furniture together, whether temporarily (like clamps) or permanently (like wood glue, nails, and screws). Below are my recommendations of the products that are useful for woodworkers looking to make quality, long-lasting furniture, whether historical or modern.

Pointing finger vertical

Buying Woodworking Clamps

Bessey Woodworking clamp holding an end table together during a glue up

New woodworkers can feel overwhelmed by all the different wood clamps on the market, and often get puzzled by which clamps they need for woodworking. In this guide I will show you some different wood clamps that I use for different situations. But I want you to understand that you don’t need to run out and buy a bunch of clamps to cover all future clamping contingencies. I know a big rack of clamps can look pretty cool in your workshop, but I recommend that you buy clamps (and other tools) one project at a time. Plan out what you want to build, then build it, and then figure out which clamps you need to sufficiently clamp that piece of furniture together during the glue-up stage. And then on the next project do the same, and if you feel that you need a couple more clamps, then go ahead and buy more. Frugality! Below are different types of clamps that I use in my woodworking workshop and school:

Popular Types of Clamps for Woodworking:


Wooden handscrew clamps have been around for a long time, and are still being manufactured because of how useful they are. The long jaws give nice reach onto your wood surface, and won’t hurt the surface of your wooden furniture. The top and bottom screws are independently operated, which enables you to clamp abnormal work pieces. These clamps also work great as cauls during panel glue-ups. My most common use for these wooden handscrew clamps is for holding smaller work pieces, and then I place these handscrews in my workbench vise. This helps me get the small piece of wood closer to my face, and gives me quick adjustability. I like to have 2 or 3 different sizes of handscrews on hand. See below for links to handscrews that I recommend.


I use parallel clamps more than any other type of wood clamp. The immense clamping power, larger jaw size, non-marring padding, and versatility make parallel clamps more appealing to me for most uses than normal I-beam bar clamps or pipe clamps. Bessey invented the “K Body” parallel clamp back in the 1990’s, and since then they have become a standard in woodworking shops due to the advantages mentioned above and due to their square and parallel jaws. Because the jaws are parallel, they distribute even pressure along the surface of the clamp pad. I use 3 different sizes (mentioned below) for a variety of tasks, including panel glue-ups, laminating workbench tops, special clamping of large boards to my workbench, and many other furniture glue-up tasks. 


F-style clamps are a simpler design than parallel clamps, and thus less expensive. Rather than providing even pressure along the jaw, this type of clamp concentrates all the pressure at the end of the jaws, where the clamp pad is screwed against your wood work piece. If you need to apply targeted clamping pressure, or if you’re just on a budget and can’t afford enough parallel clamps for the job, then F-style wood clamps may be your best bet. They come in various lengths with various jaw reach. Some F-style woodworking clamps come with rubber pads, and some just have bare metal. I like the rubber padding because it protects the wood surface from impressions, but I’ve found that with some brands, the pad leaves an oily residue on the wood. So just plan to use scraps of wood to protect your furniture. 


Pipe clamps are very useful for when you need to glue up a piece of furniture or a workbench that is too big for your parallel clamps or F-style clamps. Pipe clamps are also more affordable, because they come with just the two jaws of the clamp. You provide the pipe (1/2-inch or 3/4-inch), which is typically gas pipe. I purchase “black pipe” from my local hardware store, and they cut it to length and cut threads on the ends at no additional charge. Then I just thread the threaded part of the jaw onto one end and slide the other part of the jaw onto the other end. Pipe clamp jaws usually cost about $14 each, and 3/4-inch black pipe usually runs around $2 per foot at your hardware store. So you could buy a 10-foot pipe, cut it in half, and then buy two clamp jaws (for a total of $30) and have two 5-foot pipe clamps for about $25 a piece.  That’s not a bad deal. 


Metal C-clamps are a multi-purpose clamp, with a lot of clamping pressure, that is used for myriad tasks around my woodworking shop. My C-clamps range from 3-inches up to 8-inches. My main uses for C-clamps are keeping panels flat during glue-ups, and for clamping table legs to a board in my vise, so I can securely chop mortises on the workbench surface. We use a lot of C-clamps in our woodworking school, especially when we’re making smaller tool projects, like Try Squares, Bench Hooks, Shooting Boards, etc. Guitar makers, violin makers, and other luthiers use a lot of C-clamps when they bend the frames of their instruments. C-clamps are pretty simple clamps, but can come with some features like a quick release button, which is quite convenient. 


Ratcheting bar clamps lack the clamping power of other woodworking clamps in my workshop, but they make up for it in convenience. Being able to clamp two pieces of wood together when I only have one hand available is appealing, and the quick-release trigger offers additional convenience. The soft rubber pads on the clamp jaws are excellent for clamping delicate work, because the padded jaws protect the surface from indentations and marring. I use ratcheting clamps for glue-ups that don’t require much pressure, for holding wood to the workbench top, and some ratcheting clamps can be reversed to act as a spreader, for giving outward pressure. And best of all, a set of these clamps are usually quite affordable. I’ll discuss brands further below. 


Spring clamps are very affordable for woodworkers, but provide probably the least amount of clamping pressure. This makes spring clamps unsuitable for all but special circumstances, such as glue-ups that require very light pressure, holding delicate objects, edge banding, and temporarily holding tools or random objects in place. Guitar makers and other luthiers use a lot of spring clamps when forming the delicate bodies of their instruments. 


You’ll find a whole lot of other specialized clamps that will occasionally be used in your workshop for woodworking. These can include various clamps for miter joints, clamp guides (straight edges that clamp to a panel), toggle clamps, strap clamps, hose clamps (for dust extraction), etc… Some of these specialty clamps I use a lot, some I use on very rare occasions, and some I never use. See below for links to specialty clamps that I recommend.

Pointing finger vertical


Old wooden handscrew clamps on a woodworking workbench

Buying one or two wooden screw clamps, of different sizes, is a good idea for any woodworking shop. I like a bigger clamp, around 10-inches or 12-inches, and a smaller clamp, around 6-inches. I’ve had pretty good luck with a variety of new wooden handscrew clamps (both higher-priced and lower priced), and have had good luck with used wooden handscrew clamps, especially Jorgensen brand. The really old wooden handscrew clamps that have wooden screws can also work, but may have broken screw threads, so look carefully. Here are some good places to find wooden handscrew clamps….just compare the reviews to make sure you’re getting a good brand:


Bessey Parallell bar woodworking clamps sitting on a woodworking workbench

Several manufactures make decent parallel clamps (see the different brands & models here), but I have always used Bessey K-Body style parallel clamps. I use 3 different parallel clamp sizes for a variety of tasks in my workshop, including the following:

shaker cherry wall cupboard gluing face frames and clamping with woodworking clamps

The 6-inch parallel clamps are extremely powerful for their size and I use them very often for gluing up small items. The 24-inch parallel clamps are my mid-sized clamps that are very useful for many case piece glue-ups, and for smaller table top panels (under 24-inches). The 50-inch parallel clamps are really great for most table top panel glue-ups, because most table tops are well under 50-inches wide. This larger size can be a bit heavy for smaller glue-ups, which is why I don’t just own a bunch of 50-inch parallel clamps. Here are some other places to look for parallel clamps:


F style woodworking Clamps on a woodworking workbench

As mentioned earlier, F-style clamps are a more economical clamp than parallel clamps, though most of the time I prefer to use parallel clamps. Occasionally I need to concentrate clamping pressure on a small area, which would make F-clamps or C-clamps a better choice. It’s not a bad idea to have some around, especially when you’ll be using a lot of clamps for a glue-up, and you can’t afford to buy a whole arsenal of parallel clamps. Just make sure the steel of the F-clamp is strong, and the screw threads are deep.

F style woodworking clamps gluing up a donkey's ear shooting board

I was given some small, cheaply made F-clamps that won’t hold well, and can bend under too much pressure. As always, check reviews before buying F-clamps, so you can see what experience other woodworkers have had with certain brands. I use Jorgensen and Bessey F-clamps, but there are other brands that work well. You can find them at these stores:


Two Bessey Pipe Clamps on a woodworking workbench

As mentioned above, pipe clamps are a great way to extend your reach while reducing the amount of money that you spend. When I was building 8 workbenches for my woodworking school, I was in great need of some very long clamps. No other type of clamp would have reached as far as pipe clamps. I already owned pipe clamps, so I just bought longer pipes, and easily extended my reach. I use 3/4-inch pipe clamps, because they feel stronger to me. I have only ever owned the Bessey brand of pipe clamps, but I’ve heard that PONY brand is also good. Some of the cheaper imported brands seem to be of inferior manufacturing quality, and parts have been known to fall off and threads have been poor, which can prevent you from attaching the pipe. Here are sources for buying good pipe clamps…just check the reviews:


Woodworking C clamps sitting on a woodworking workbench

My favorite model of C-clamp was the quick release C-clamps (with the little yellow button), manufactured for Lowe’s hardware store, under the Kobalt brand. But obviously the decision makers at Lowe’s didn’t really understand how good those clamps were, because they’ve replaced it with inferior non-quick release c-clamps. I haven’t seen any other C-clamp that had that cool quick release mechanism, which allowed you to avoid so much turning of the screw. I do occasionally see the Kobalt C-clamps on Ebay, which you can find here.

Kobalt Quick Release C-Clamp holding a table leg for chopping a mortise with a mortice chisel

Aside from that amazing C-clamp, I haven’t found that any of the other brands of C-clamps are too much different from each other. As long as they have good threads and decent manufacturing, I don’t think the brand matters too much. I purchased a whole bunch of C-clamps for my woodworking school, from Harbor Freight (under the PITTSBURGH® brand name), and they have worked just fine, and are very affordable. Here are some links where you can compare prices and reviews on different brands of C-clamps: