WTB Jack plane for beginner

WTB Jack plane for beginner 2015-11-05T10:36:30+00:00
  • Creator
    Topic
  • #2027820

    Eric T
    Participant
    Post count: 6

    Hey guys,

    I’m looking for a decent #4 or #4 1/2. My budget is limited right now due to most of my extra funds going towards my shop that is being built currently. I’d like to stay under $50 but I might be able to stretch it a little. I still have to account for buying stones and what not for sharpening. Since I do have power tools I’m going to have to make my progression into hand tools a slow journey. Based on Josh’s guide, a jack plane looks like the place to start. If it is a plane that needs a little TLC, I am okay with that as well. It would be a good opportunity to get to know the tool better and maintence on it. I would be open to extending the budget just a little more if a low angle (bevel up?) block plane is also available.

    Thanks,

    Eric

  • Author
    Replies
  • Bill
    Participant
    Post count: 72

    The first thing that pops into my mind would be a pre-WW II Stanley #4 or #4 1/2. You may get lucky and find one on eBay for $50 or so – but you should also look around at local yard sales, your local Craigslist, etc. You can fix those up very easily and made a good user plane out of a surprisingly dingy tool purchase.

    Otherwise, you could buy an iron (or a cap iron and iron set if you like Krenov style planes) and make your own. That may be an enjoyable way to get into it since you already have some power tools to assist you in the fabrication of the plane body. There’s plenty of online resources to show you how…youtube is awash with “how to” videos.

  • Mike in TN
    Participant
    Post count: 254

    Hi Eric T,

    First, a #4 or 41/2 are both smoothers, unless they have been modified as scrub planes.  The #4s out number the 4 1/2s with the difference being that the 41/2s are wider planes. A #5 (Stanley numbering system) is what is normally referred to as a jack (as in “jack-of-all-trades” or, “jack knife” meaning something that is common). A jack can be used for rough work or super smoothing, just depending on how it is tuned and set up.

    Like Bill says, your best bet is to always buy local when you can in order to save the shipping costs. Stanley made lots and lots of planes but unfortunately, they have gone through a period where the quality really went down hill. The pre-WWII planes have gotten a lot of attention but, in my opinion, the planes made through the early 1960’s can be just as good. and sometimes have heavier castings.  The operative words are “can be”, because Stanley also made some cheaper, low end planes during the same period. Look for Stanley planes with all of the parts, no apparent damage, no plastic, frog adjustment screw, and the large brass depth adjustment wheel and you will pretty safe. Take the time, if you can, to take it apart to make sure there is plenty of blade left and there is no major pitting on the blade back since that can make the blade unusable. You can get replacement blades but that just adds to the final costs. Just remember that shine doesn’t necessarily make the tool work any better.

    Estate sales, flea markets, and yard sales are normally your best bet and sometime they can be found at antique stores at reasonable prices. You should have no problem finding what you want within your budget.The problem most beginners have is telling a good one from a bad one and being able to tune them up so that they will perform well. I always encourage beginners to try and find a local experienced buddy, a woodworking group or to take a hand tool class if for no other reason than to find out just how well the tools can perform and how to fettle them if necessary. Barring that option, watch all of the videos you can on the subject.

    Have fun

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.

Log In
Join

Wood and Shop in your inbox?

Subscribe to get Joshua's free traditional woodworking videos, articles & news:

You have Successfully Subscribed!