4. Install the Hinges on the Lid
Now I set the lid back on the chest, and align the pencil marks with the hinges. I then use a marking knife to transfer the size of the hinge to the lid, with a small tick mark.
I put the knife right up against the hinge. I move the lid to my workbench vise to layout the hinge mortises. This step is pretty fast and easy because I still have my settings on my marking gauges.
I first mark the depth with the cutting gauge (see above), and then the width (see below):
Then I use a combination square and marking knife to connect the lines.
It’s as easy as that. And the marking lines are hard to see, so I use a sharp pencil to darken them.
Cutting out the mortise on the lid is just about the same process as on the box, so I’ won’t repeat it.
Just layout and chop out the mortise and use the router plane (if you have one) to flatten the mortise bottom.
Now for boring the screw holes on the lid. This is where the tape on the drill bit is really important, because I really want to make sure I stop well before I go through the top of the lid.
For the lid I like to start the screws before I install the hinge, because it’s harder to start a screw hole when I’m trying to balance the lid next to the box.
I don’t need to go all the way down. Just enough to make it easy when the hinges are on.
Now I stack some wood to make it easier to balance my lid upside down while I attach the hinges.
And I just add the waxed screws in just like before, except I don’t tighten down any of the lid screws until they’re all in place.
Then just like before I go back & forth, and rotate tightening each screw a bit until they’re all tight. And again, I like to clock the screws to make them look a little nicer.
So here you can see how amazingly historical these inexpensive hinges and screws look, and even more importantly, they work great and will last for many years.