Step 2: Mix Turpentine and Boiled Linseed Oil in a Jar
While the beeswax is melting you can mix the turpentine and boiled linseed oil. You will not be heating the boiled linseed oil or turpentine in my method, as I prefer to keep my face intact. Please don’t try methods that recommend heating the entire mixture. There is no need. Get a small canning jar, and mix equal amounts of turpentine and boiled linseed oil.
I like the small 6 ounce canning jars because the jars have a 2 ounce mark, 4 ounce mark, and 6 ounce mark. This is perfect for adding an equal mixture of all three ingredients (1/3 of each).
The boil linseed oil acts as a penetrating agent to bring out depth and enhance the figure of the wood. That’s the secret ingredient that makes this a wood seasoning beeswax finish. But oil is optional. Some historical recipes use just beeswax and turpentine. Turpentine is a solvent derived from pine tree sap, and is used to keep the beeswax from hardening too much.
As I just mentioned, some of the historic beeswax furniture polish recipes use just beeswax and turpentine, when surface penetration is not desired. But I like the addition of boiled linseed oil because I use this as more of a wood finish than just a furniture polish. I like how the oil darkens the wood over time.
But don’t use raw linseed oil, because your finish will take weeks to dry. Modern boiled linseed oil isn’t actually boiled, but uses chemical dryers to accelerate the drying process of the oil. Go ahead and use a clean stick or spoon to mix the boiled linseed oil and turpentine.